A Garden Glossary

There are various gardening terms used in Horticulture that is sometimes bewildering to the Home Gardener. As more people turn to gardening for pleasure, this explanatory list is included with a view of educating the meanings of some of the common words and terms used in gardening.

ANNUAL – A plant that completes its life cycle within one year, from germination to flowering and seed production, and then dies.

BALL – Plants are always lifted, if possible, with a good “ball,” which means with sufficient soil adhering to the roots to prevent undue shock.

BLEEDING – As a rule this refers to the flow of sap following the cutting of shoots at the wrong season, though some plants will ”bleed” at almost any time if cut; the India rubber plant, for example.

BREAK – A shoot is said to break when it makes visible growth after it has been pinched or stopped. A natural break occurs when fresh growth is produced in a natural manner without pinching.

BULB – An underground storage organ consisting of layers of fleshy scales. Bulbs are planted in the soil and produce flowers.

CALLUS – This is a ring of tissue that forms at the base of a cutting, usually in a few weeks after it is inserted; subse­quently roots issue from the callus.

COMPOST – Decomposed organic matter used to improve soil fertility and structure. Composting is the process of breaking down organic material using bacteria and fungi to create a nutrient-rich soil amendment. It’s an easy way to recycle kitchen scraps, garden waste and other organic matter while also providing valuable nutrients and trace elements that can be added to the soil.

CLOSE – A close atmosphere means a warm, moist atmosphere without ventilation.

CLUMP – A clump indicates good-sized  root of some herbaceous plant, such as Phlox, Michaelmas daisy, etc.

CROWN – This means a growth possessing a bud, usually or in the soil, from which growth springs annually.

CROWN BUD – In reference to chrysanthemums, the crown bud is the flower bud produced at the end of the first growth made direct from the cutting.

DAMPING DOWN – This is carried out in greenhouses by wetting the floors and other vacant spaces. The object is to keep the atmosphere sufficiently moist for the needs of the plants, and it is essential chiefly in hot weather.

DAMPING OFF – Seedlings “damp off” when they are kept in a close atmosphere and are over watered, especially if they are growing thickly together. Under such conditions they are attacked by a fungus, as indicated by the stems turning black and decaying at the soil level.

DEADHEADING – Removing faded or spent flowers from plants to encourage more blooms and prevent seed production.

DRAWN – Plants are said to be drawn when the growth has become elongated owing to insufficient light, or owing to their being placed too far from the glass.

DRESS – To dress ground is to apply manure or any other substance, such applications being termed dressings. The term is also used when referring to arranging any petals of a flower that are misplaced. Carnations are usually dressed for show.

DUSTING – The application of lime, soot, and similar materials to soils or plants as a protection against or remedy for insect attacks.

EROSION – The process of soil being carried away by wind or water, often caused by improper drainage or lack of vegetation.

FERTILIZER – Nutrient-rich substances added to soil or plants to promote growth and health.

FORCING – This term explains the process of bringing plants to maturity out of their natural season by means of a heated glass house or frame.

FLAG – Plants flag when their leaves lose their stiffness and droop, a condition usually caused by dryness at the roots.

GERMINATION – The process by which a seed sprouts and begins to grow.

GRAFTING – This is an advanced method of propagating plants, whereby a piece of one plant (the scion) is joined to a rootstock of another plant. The skill and craftsmanship involved in grafting can produce some truly beautiful results, while also allowing you to create plants with specific characteristics such as growth rate or hardiness.

HARDEN OFF – When young seedlings are grown indoors or under protection, they need to be gradually accustomed to the harsher conditions outdoors before being planted out fully. This process of hardening off should be done over a week or two, giving the plants time to adjust.

HARDINESS ZONE – A geographic area defined by its average minimum temperature range, used to determine which plants can thrive in specific regions.

HOTBED – A hotbed is a large bulk of fresh manure, often with leaves added, and made into a square or oblong bed, for the purpose of providing bottom heat for the cultivation of various plants by cuttings or seed.

INVASIVE PLANT – A non-native plant species that spreads aggressively and displaces native vegetation.

IRRIGATION – Irrigation is essential for healthy plant growth and is achieved through controlled watering. Whether using drip lines, sprinklers or simply a hose, it’s important to get the watering regime just right.

JOINTING – Jointing is the process of cutting a plant back to encourage new growth and more flowers or fruit. It’s an important technique used in pruning but should be done at the correct time of year specific to each individual variety.

JUNCTURE – The point at which a branch or stem joins another branch or the main stem of a plant.

KNEELER – A padded cushion or support used to kneel on while gardening, reducing strain on the knees.

KNOT GARDEN – Knot gardens are formal herb beds that traditionally feature intricate patterns created by low box hedges and foliage plants. They were popular during Elizabethan times and have made a recent comeback as part of modern landscape design.

LAYERING – Layering is another form of propagating plants and involves bending over a stem and burying it in the soil. The buried stem will develop roots and can then be cut away from the main plant and replanted elsewhere.

LEGGY – Synonymous with drawn, already explained, but also used occasionally to describe plants of which the stems have become bare owing to the loss of the lower leaves.

LEAF MOULD – This useful ingredient of most potting soils is formed by placing a quantity of leaves in a heap to decay a process which usually takes 12 months.

LOAM – A soil type with a balanced mixture of sand, silt, and clay particles, providing good drainage and fertility.

MULCH – A protective layer of material, such as wood chips or straw, spread over the soil surface to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Mulch is any material used to cover the soil around a plant, to improve moisture retention, protect against weeds and temperature extremes, or add nutrients to the soil. Organic mulches include compost, bark chips and straw while inorganic ones are made of stones or rubber chips.

NECTAR – A sweet, sugary liquid produced by flowers to attract pollinators, such as bees and butterflies.

NEMATODES – Nematodes are microscopic worms found in soils that feed on pest insects such as slugs and aphids. Beneficial nematodes can be bought from garden centres and applied directly to the soil for natural pest control.

ORGANIC GARDENING – A method of gardening that emphasizes the use of natural, chemical-free techniques and materials, such as compost and organic fertilizers. This involves growing plants without the use of synthetic fertilisers, pesticides or other chemicals. By creating a healthy garden ecosystem, organic gardening can minimise the impact on the environment and produce healthier plants.

PERENNIAL – A plant that lives for multiple years, with new growth appearing each spring.

PERLITE – Perlite is an inert lightweight material made from heated volcanic rock that’s used to aerate growing media such as compost or potting soil mixes. It helps to improve drainage and water retention, making it ideal for container-grown plants.

PINCH – A plant is said to be pinched when the growing points are removed to induce the formation of side shoots.

PLUNGE – Plants in pots are plunged when placed, just as they are, in ashes, soil, or other material; bulbs when potted for indoor flowering are plunged in ashes, and pots of cuttings, etc., are sometimes plunged in cocoanut fiber.

POTTING ON – This work consists of repotting    plants into larger pots than those previously occupied.

POTTING OFF – Cuttings or seedlings growing several in a pot or box are said to be potted off when each is given a small separate pot.

PRICK OUT – Seedlings are pricked out by transplanting so that they may have more room for development.

PROPAGATOR – A propagator is a name often given to a propagating case, which is a box-like contrivance with a glass cover and heated from underneath. It is used for the propagation of cuttings which need a close atmosphere to ensure the formation of roots. Seeds may also be germinated in such.

QUICKLIME – A white, caustic substance used in gardening to raise soil pH levels.

REPOT – When a plant is repotted it is tipped out of its pot, and after some of the old soil is removed, it is repotted in another and usually a larger pot.

ROOTBOUND – When the roots of a potted plant become tightly packed and fill the entire container, inhibiting growth.

ROSE – An appliance for placing on the spout of a watering can to ensure a spray of water, instead of one heavy stream, as would be the case otherwise.

ROTATION – Rotation is the practice of alternating which vegetables are grown in a particular area from year to year. This helps to reduce the build up of pests and diseases in the soil, as well as improving fertility with different types of crops being grown.

SAPPY – Sappy growths are soft and flabby, and are usually caused by excessive manuring, by over-watering, or by soil not sufficiently firm.

SET – This term indicates the formation of fruit after the flowers have faded.

SIDESHOOTS – Growths that develop from buds situated in the axils of the leaves on a main growth are termed side-shoots.

SOIL TESTING – Soil testing is a vital part of successful gardening, enabling you to identify any problems such as nutrient deficiencies or pH imbalances before planting. Kits for this purpose can be bought from garden centres or online and will provide all the necessary instructions.

SPRAYING – This is another word for syringing, the water emitted in the form of a spray; or, more correctly, it has reference to the use of a spraying machine.

STAKING – Providing support for tall or weak-stemmed plants by using stakes or trellises to prevent them from bending or breaking.

START – Plants are started into growth by being placed in a warmer temperature and given more water than hitherto.

STOCK – The word has a double meaning for gardeners. It may be used to indicate a number of plants, often of one kind, and it is also the name given to a plant upon which another is bedded or grafted.

STOP – The growth of plants is stopped temporarily by pinching.

STRIKE – A cutting is said to strike when it forms roots.

TAKING BUDS – A Chrysanthemum bud is taken when it is left! It is really secured by removing all the smaller     buds on the same growth.

TOP DRESSING – This indicates  an application of soil – usually rich – manure, or other substance over the roots of plants or upon a grass lawn.

TRANSPLANTING – Moving a plant from one location to another, either within the garden or from a container to the ground.

TRELLISING – Trellising is a method of training plants upwards by attaching them to structures such as wires or frames. It’s most commonly used with climbing plants but can also be used to support plants like tomatoes and beans.

UPROOTING – Uprooting is the process of lifting a plant from its bed or container and removing it from the garden for transplanting elsewhere. It’s an essential technique when dividing perennials or moving plants due to changing conditions.

UNDERSTORY – The layer of vegetation beneath the canopy of taller trees in a forest or woodland.

VERMICULTURE – The process of using worms to decompose organic waste and create nutrient-rich vermicompost.

VERTICILLIUM WILT – Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease that can affect many types of trees and shrubs, causing them to exhibit wilting foliage and dieback. Treatment involves improving drainage, avoiding overwatering and using resistant varieties where possible.

WEEDING – Removing unwanted plants or weeds from the garden to prevent competition for nutrients and space. The best way to keep them under control is by removing them periodically using a garden hoe, trowel or even your hands.

XERISCAPING – Landscaping and gardening practices that minimize the need for supplemental watering by using drought-tolerant plants and efficient water management techniques. It’s useful for conserving water in dry regions and often involves using native species that are better able to resist drought or pests.

YARD GRASSES – Grass can be used in a variety of ways in the garden from turf lawns to ornamental grasses planted for their foliage and flower displays. The most common types include Bermuda, ryegrass, fescues and bents which all make great low-maintenance ground cover.

YIELD – The amount of produce or flowers obtained from a plant or garden.

ZONE OF INFLUENCE – The area around a tree or shrub where the roots extend and have an impact on soil moisture and nutrient availability.

ZONE PLANTING – Zone planting is the practice of grouping plants together according to their water and nutrient needs. This helps to ensure they get the right care and prevents nutrients from leaching away too quickly in areas where heavy watering is needed.