A Handy Worm Farm Kit Information and Care Guide to Happy Healthy Worms

Do you ever wish you had an army of helpers to nourish your garden, improve soil quality, and reduce waste? Look no further than worm farm kits! These incredible systems allow you to harness the power of earthworms to transform your kitchen scraps and organic waste into rich, nutrient-dense compost. Imagine the joy of witnessing the magic of nature unfold right in your backyard. Join the growing movement of eco-conscious gardeners who are embracing worm farming and reaping the benefits of sustainable gardening practices. Get ready to unlock the secrets of worm farming and create a thriving ecosystem that nurtures both your garden and the planet!

Worm farm kits are a convenient and efficient way to cultivate worms in your own backyard. By providing an optimal environment, these kits enable you to easily turn kitchen scraps and organic waste into nutrient-rich compost, promoting healthy soil and sustainable gardening practices.

Worm farms are becoming increasingly popular, as people look for ways to reduce their environmental impact. Worms are nature’s way of recycling organic matter, and a worm farm can help you to compost your kitchen waste.

• Worm farm kits provide a convenient and space-efficient way to cultivate earthworms and convert organic waste into nutrient-rich compost.
• Consider your specific needs and limitations when selecting a worm farm kit, such as available space, time constraints, and concerns about odor or pests.
• Look for worm farm kits that offer easy setup, minimal maintenance, proper ventilation, and pest-proof designs.
• Take advantage of the educational resources and online communities provided with many worm farm kits to enhance your knowledge and ensure successful worm farming.

Worm farming, otherwise known as vermiculture (vermis from the Latin for worm) is the process of harnessing earthworms to convert organic waste into the world’s most nutrient-rich fertilizer; worm manure. Worms are nature’s unique and natural recyclers, by having a worm farm you can make your own cost-effective organic fertilizer which is the very best homemade fertilizer for your veggies and plants.

Worms and Their Benefits

The benefits of vermiculture are numerous. Not only is it a great way to reduce your carbon footprint, but it’s also an excellent method of recycling and repurposing food scraps and other organic matter. Plus, it’s a fun and rewarding hobby that the whole family can get involved in!

There are many different types of earthworms, but for worm farming, we recommend using red wigglers (Eisenia fetida). Red wigglers are great at breaking down organic matter and they reproduce quickly, so you’ll always have a healthy population of worms.

Why Farm Worms?

Climate change, depletion of natural resources, and mass urbanization present unprecedented threats to global food security and human survival. Worm farming provides solutions that help us, as individuals, communities, institutions and businesses, to meet and address these challenges in our own backyard. Worm farming is suitable for city, urban environments and even indoors. It is low tech and a cost effective way of reducing household waste.

Preventing Food Waste

Food waste emits the greenhouse gases methane and nitrous oxide that are 31 and 310 times stronger than carbon dioxide (CO2). At an individual level, worm farming has the ability to minimize greenhouse gas emissions by substantially reducing the amount of landfill-driven food waste and in effect alleviating the need for fossil-fuel-driven collection vehicles.

Worm Farms are great for kids!

Worm farming is an environmentally sound and economical solution for organic waste management and suitable for organic farming. Worm farming is also a great educational tool for children and teaches the basics of recycling in nature, and educates kids to be responsible for their waste.

Housing Your Worms

Now that you know a little bit about worms, it’s time to start thinking about housing them. If you want to keep your worms healthy (and who doesn’t?), then they’re going to need a comfortable home with all the amenities they require. Luckily, we’ve put together this handy guide on how to build a worm farm so you can create the perfect environment for your wiggly friends.

Worm Farm Bins come into their own in limited spaces, because even on a reduced scale they are self-contained and are just as effective. Small bins do not produce a huge amount of worm compost, but because it is so concentrated in nutrients and minerals, you don’t need to have much.

Selecting your Worm farm: What Work Farm is Right For You?

Limited Space? Many gardeners face space constraints and may not have large areas for traditional compost heaps or worm farms.

Opt for compact worm farm kits that are designed to fit in small spaces like balconies, patios, or even indoors. These kits are designed to maximize efficiency while minimizing footprint.

Lack of Time? Today’s busy lifestyles can make traditional composting methods seem daunting and time-consuming.

Choose larger worm farm kits that require minimal maintenance and are designed for easy setup and operation. These kits are specifically designed for busy individuals who want to make a positive impact without a significant time commitment.

Have odor and Pest Concerns? Some gardeners worry about unpleasant smells or attracting pests when composting.

Look for worm farm kits with proper ventilation and pest-proof designs. These features ensure adequate airflow and discourage unwanted visitors, providing a clean and odor-free composting experience.

New to worm farming? Starting a worm farm may seem overwhelming, especially for beginners without prior experience.

Opt for worm farm kits that come with comprehensive instructions and educational resources. These kits often include guides, videos, and online communities where you can connect with fellow worm farmers for support and advice.

DIY: how to make a worm farm

There are two main types of worm farm: those that are bought pre-made, and those that are made from recycled plastic bins. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Pre-made worm farms are clean and simple to set up, but they can be more expensive than DIY Worm Farms.

DIY Worm Farms can be made from recycled plastic storage bins or catering-size food containers, but they may require more time and effort to set up. If you are thinking of starting a worm farm, make sure that you choose a bin that is large enough to accommodate your needs. You will also need to drill holes in the bin for ventilation, and install a tap at the bottom to drain excess moisture.

Material Needed: drill, saw, screwdriver, measuring tape, hammer, nails, level, black plastic or Tyvek (for bottom), hardware cloth or chicken wire (for sides), screws

1. Decide on the size of your worm farm. A good rule of thumb is to start with a bin that’s at least 10 gallons for every 1lb of food waste you generate each week. Keep in mind that your worm bin can always be expanded if needed.
2. Cut ¼-inch holes evenly spaced apart along all four sides of your bin for ventilation. These should be no larger than 1 inch x 2 inches each.
3. Drill ¼-inch drainage holes in the bottom of your bin. These should be no larger than ½ inch in diameter each and placed about 6 inches apart from one another.
4. Place hardware cloth or chicken wire over the drainage holes on the inside of the bin to keep your worms from escaping. Secure in place with screws.
5. Line the bottom of your bin with black plastic or Tyvek to prevent moisture from seeping out while still allowing excess water to drain properly.

Once you’ve got your worm farm bin set up, you need to get some worms and food starter mix. You cannot dig up earthworms from outside (they would hate to live in a bin); you need special compost worms, which you can get online or from some shops.

All about worms

Composting Worms

Worms have both male and female sexual organs their hermaphroditic biological nature enables earthworms to reproduce very quickly and has the capacity to double its population every 60 days! Your worms will regulate their population to the available space and the amount of food you give them.

Lifecycle of a Worm

1) Golden cocoons are laid 4-5 days after mating
2) Juvenile worms hatch in 23-30 days
3) Worms are sexually mature in 60 days

Worms can be divided into two broad categories; ‘Composters’ and ‘earth workers‘. Among the thousands of species of earthworm, only a few types are suitable for use in worm farming. These special worms are red in color and are near-surface dwellers, thriving on fresh rotting organic waste. Throughout the world, the most common composting species are Tiger Worms, also called Red Wiggler or Californian Red (Eisenia Fetida). Originally from Europe, the Tiger Worm has adaptability and tolerance to a range of food sources, temperature variation and moisture content. The Tiger Worm can consume up to half its body weight a day, making them very suitable for disposing of organic waste.

How to Care for your Worms

Worms are fairly easy to please but need a certain amount of attention and care. Worm farming at home is the perfect environmentally conscious solution for handling your kitchen scraps. Worm composting helps to keep valuable organic waste from landfill sites while producing a very special product which makes your plants very healthy.

Worm Farm Placement

Place your worm farm in a cool, sheltered position in afternoon shade. Morning sun is fine. Worms thrive at a wide temperature range of 10-30c. Keep your worm farm out of direct sunlight in the summer to avoid overheating and during the winter add layered cardboard to stop the cold air getting inside. Your worms will slow down during the winter. Worms do require a moist environment to thrive so it’s important to keep the farm damp. Each week flush your worm farm with water but ensure the tap is open to avoid flooding but use a bucket underneath to collect the worm tea. If you’ve got a healthy worm farm, worm tea is a great fertilizer for all plants. Flushing each week prevents the water in the bottom from going stale, prevents ants from moving in and keeps the bin environment for the worms healthy and fresh smelling.

A Bed For your worms

The material in our farms where the worms live (and eat) is referred to as “Bedding, Browns, or Carbon.” It is a high-carbon material, such as cardboard, newspaper, or aged grass/leaves, or in worm farm kits, a brick of coco coir or peat.

The worms do not live in their “food,” so bedding helps to simulate their natural environment. The bedding provides a safe haven for the worms to retreat to if food is added that heats up (especially in the summer) or if conditions such as heat or cold cause the worms to retreat from the surface.

When feeding, you must provide carbon. This contributes to the creation of a light, fluffy, aerated environment and balances the food, making castings lighter and easier to handle.
Too little bedding/too much food is the most common cause of worm death, as well as an unsuccessful worm farm or castings that are difficult to use or harvest.

Grass & Leaves: Fresh, green, lush grass is more of a “food,” so never put too much in at once. It is more of a bedding only when it is dry, but it is still a food. Pile it up when mowing, and after a few weeks add a handful of old dry grass each week – the worms love it. In a new farm, use grass sparingly to avoid starting a hot compost reaction.

Food for your worms

Worms do not actually eat your food waste, they live off the microorganisms that break it down. It is always better to add partially decomposed kitchen waste as it is easier for the worms to eat and chopping food finely or whizzing in an old blender helps to break your scraps down faster. Add food in thin layers to avoid compaction or bury in the worm bedding. Avoid acidic and oily food, as well as meat and dairy.

Worms are voracious eaters, but they only have very small mouths. Allowing your kitchen scraps to partially break down in a caddy, mashing or chopping their food first, will mean they can work faster to make useful compost. It is always better to under feed your worms rather than over feed them and if the food is not being eaten stop feeding them for two weeks. Worms like all sorts of things, but stay away from anything acidic as worms do not like acidic conditions so avoid too much citrus, onion and coffee or it will make your worm farm a toxic environment for your worms. Also keep out oily food, worms breathe through their skin and grease will suffocate them.

Composting worms do need a regular source of carbon to absorb moisture and act as bedding: you can use either coconut coir or shredded paper, toilet rolls, and egg cartons. As with regular composting 30% carbon should be added to your Worm Farm which also absorbs excess moisture. Shredded paper, toilet rolls or egg cartons are a great source of carbon, and worms especially love ripped up corrugated cardboard.

Do not overload your worms, adding food in thin 2cm layers avoids compaction and suffocation in the worm bin. Lightly sprinkle a little sand or bird grit every two weeks. Using a little sand aids digestion and helps break down the food waste in the worm’s gizzard. Finely crushed eggshells can be used for this purpose, which also balances the alkalinity. If your worm farm becomes smelly, you are most likely overfeeding your worms. If the food you’re providing is not being eaten stop feeding them for a few weeks. If your worm farm attracts a fly infestation sprinkle a little diatomaceous earth on the surface of the worm farm. This stops the flies from laying eggs in your worm bin.

Worm Castings

What are Worm Castings?

Worm castings are the waste product of worms (their poop!). As they eat their way through organic matter, they excrete a black, crumbly substance that is rich in nutrients and perfect for plant growth. Worm castings are often used as a natural fertilizer, as they help to improve drainage and aeration while providing essential nutrients for plants. In addition, worm castings can help to break down compacted soils, making them more easily renewable. As a result, Worm Castings are an excellent way to improve the health of your garden.

Worm Castings (a.k.a worm manure) can be used on everything from houseplants to vegetables in pots and in seedling trays or directly in the garden. It has excellent moisture-retentive properties, and it is great for naturally supporting disease and pest control, containing fungus-eating nematodes and protozoa as well as high levels of chitinase (one of nature’s natural insect repellants). Just make sure you feed it to your plants and don’t rub it on your skin!

how to separate worms from castings

After 3-6 months your worm farm should be ready to harvest some worm manure. The by product of worm farming commonly referred to as worm castings or worm manure is a superior, nutritionally rich compost and fertilizer, teeming with minerals and nutrients.

The most effective method for removing worms from a tray of castings is to lift the tray to the top section of the worm farm, leaving the lid off. By doing this, the worms will naturally migrate down to the lower levels. This is an efficient and easy way of separating castings and worms quickly, allowing you to access them independently.

Make sure you give trays a good clean with a hose ready for reuse (ideally on your lawn for all those lovely plant food nutrients).

Worm Manure for your garden or house plants

Worm manure – also worm castings or vermicompost – is full of minerals, nutrients and beneficial micro-organisms essential for healthy plant growth, root development and disease suppression. Due to the nutritional superiority of worm manure, farmers and gardeners often refer to it as ‘Black Gold’, with one tablespoon enough to feed a small plant for three months. For best results mix at a ratio of 2:10 with regular compost, it’s superior water holding capacity is excellent for hanging baskets and vertical gardens which often loose moisture.

Worm Tea

The liquid collected from the bottom container of your worm farm is a sufficient liquid plant feed when diluted 1:20, however this is called leachate and should not be confused with worm manure tea mande from castings. Leachate can contain microbes harmful to plants if your worm farm has become anaerobic.

To brew your own worm manure tea seep one handful of castings in an old pair of tights in 2 liters of water, leave for 24 hours and stir occasionally. For use as a natural insect repellent use as a foliage spray. Repeat every 3-4 weeks throughout the growing season.

Worm Farming Tips

1. Do not feed worms farmyard or pet manures as these often carry vermicides for killing parasitic worms
2. Avoid drowning worms by keeping the drainage tap open with a bowl underneath to collect the liquid fertiliser
3. Do not put garden earthworms worms in your worm farm bin, use a composting species only
4. Avoid putting garden soil waste in your worm farm you may introduce species that will eat your worms (eg Flat Worms, Hammerhead worms). Your worms prefer soft kitchen food – throw garden waste in your regular composter.
5. Going away on holiday? They’ll be fine. Just make sure they won’t get too hot/cold, top up their food before you go adding a couple of corn on the cobs and some damp cardboard. On your return they’ll have eaten everything in sight, including their bedding, but they recover quickly once they’ve had a few banana skins and go back normal feeding routines.

Common problems with worm farms

Ants in worm bin

Ants in a worm farm can indicate that the farm is too dry. To combat ants in a worm bin, you could try the following:

1. Flush the farm with water – make sure the tap is open.
2. Add saucers of water around the legs of the farm to act as a barrier, with some detergent added to alter the surface tension so the ants can’t walk or float across the water.
3. For further protection against ants, consider applying a barrier of Vaseline around the legs or base of your worm farm.
4. As an added bonus, adding slightly crushed fresh mint leaves onto the bedding and into its mixture will keep ants at bay and create a pleasant smell!

maggots in worm bin

If you add meat or dairy products to your worm bin – stop it now! You are providing a breeding ground for the common house fly larvae which is a small white maggot.

The beige large chunky maggots which can often be seen in a worm bin are nature’s garbage disposal team – Black Soldier Fly maggots which are actually fine and quite harmless. To manage and reduce your maggot population, it is essential to strike the right balance between carbon and nitrogen inputs. Scraps added to your worm bin should always have double the amount of dry carbon materials, such as shredded paper, cardboard or dry grass clippings (just make sure they’re not gum leaves!). Furthermore, if you cut up whole fruits, this will allow easier access for the bacteria needed to break the scraps down further in your bin.

Tiny white worms in my compost

Your bin is most likely anaerobic and sour. When the worm bin becomes wet and acidic, pot worms flock to fermenting food. Overfeeding is not recommended, especially of fruit and vegetable scraps as they produce too much moisture. Add more carbon, such as cardboard or newspaper, to absorb some of the excess moisture and fluff up the soil to aerate it. To adjust the pH, add crushed eggshells or agricultural lime – add a sprinkle (light covering) whenever you add scraps to the bin.

Worms dying down in the lower leachate tray

In extreme weather, have trays of bedding underneath so worms can dig down to escape hot/cold temperatures. Also, in the summer, I put my worm farms in my shed outside because they don’t get hot there, whereas they used to get too hot even in the shade.

Misinformation on worm farming

False: Blending or grinding worm food enables worms to eat faster.
Freezing and blending food will most likely result in overfeeding and nutrients leaching down through the worm bin, preventing worms from migrating upwards and making your castings tray muddy, heavy and wet, making it difficult to handle.

False: Worms do not consume food; they consume microbes.
Is sort of correct – the worms’ diet consists of microbes, but they can’t consume microbes without first consuming the substrate (bedding and food, rotting down). The substrate decomposes further as it passes through the worm’s gut, forming castings.

common Mistakes

1. Overfeeding is the most common reason for worm farms to fail or perform poorly.
   Worms can only eat their body weight in food and bedding once or twice per week in the real world. Begin feeding 1 to 2 cups of food per 1000 worms in your system per week.
2. Overfeeding goes hand in hand with under bedding.
   With each feeding, add bedding/carbon/browns in proportion to the food, erring on the side of too much bedding. This is extremely important. Farms with insufficient bedding suffer from wet, muddy conditions and castings; the worms suffer and your entire system may fail.
3. Overwatering makes excess Leachate and Leachate is bad – it’s worm farm toilet water. Don’t store or sell Leachate or use it on veg that you plan to eat.
   It may be toxic to humans, plants, and pets. Cover farms from rain if the lid has air holes keeping the air holes open when covering. Always keep the bin tap open so it doesn’t collect and potentially drown your worms.
4. Believing all insects (other than worms) are pests.
   Insects of all kinds are a natural component of a healthy soil, compost, or worm farm. If the insect population is out of control, it’s because they prefer something other than worms. Overfeeding, inadequate bedding, and overwatering are all potential culprits, as is improper feeding.
5. Garden lime is not a pesticide.
   Except for mites, adding lime has no effect on insect control. Worm farms do require need a small amount of lime/conditioner.
6. Using Diatomaceous Earth (DE) for pest control
   DE will harm worms and it will also kill ALL of the beneficial insects in your compost bin. Use it and expect total bin collapse within weeks or months.

Getting attached – How you’ll Know your wriggly friends are happy and healthy

If your worms are active when you lift the lid, moving around away from the light and exploring their environment. This is a good sign that they are feeling content and comfortable in the environment you have provided for them. On the other hand, if they seem sluggish or inactive, it could be a sign that something is amiss.

Take a look at your worms’ appearance. Happy worms are usually plump and have a smooth, moist appearance. If they are unusually thin, dry, or have rough skin, it could be a sign that they are stressed or sick. To keep your worms at their best, make sure they have access to plenty of food and moisture.

In addition to their physical health, it’s also important to pay attention to your worms’ behavior. Do they seem to be acting normally, such as crawling around, burrowing into the substrate, or eating? If so, that’s a good indication that they are happy. If you notice any changes in their behavior, it could be a sign that something is wrong.

Speaking of food and moisture, it’s important to provide your worms with a consistent supply of both in the right proportions of greens and browns, make sure their habitat is properly set up with the right substrate and temperature.

By setting up a worm farm you are helping to protect the earth, and the great thing is you don’t even need a garden to get started, your worms will happily live on a balcony or even under your kitchen sink. Worm farming enables us to regenerate the earth, producing nutritionally rich fertilizer and compost from our waste to support the production of home grown food.

Worm farm kits offer an opportunity to engage with nature in a unique and rewarding way while contributing to a healthier, more sustainable planet. Now that you have all the information you need to get started with vermiculture, why not give it a try? It’s a fun and rewarding hobby that comes with plenty of benefits! Plus, once you have a steady supply of nutrient-rich worm manure, you can use it to fertilize your garden and grow healthier plants than ever before.